Kyoto In The Spring Time

Our friend Eric Dunham came to Japan and invited us to a wine dinner he was hosting at the Kobe Bay Sheraton. Kim and I decided to make a little trip out of it and headed off to Kansai for the weekend. We got to Kobe on Wednesday evening where we met up with Eric and his fiance Luana for cocktails before the dinner. Dinner was exceptional with Eric talking about each of his wines that was paired by the chef and sommelier. It was unique to me because the wine was paired with Japanese inspired dishes. I found it fun and enlightening. My favorite was a fried foie gras paired with Riesling? I thought it was going to be impossible to enjoy together but I was proven wrong. We finished off the night in the lounge over some nice champagne and conversation.

The next day Kim and I were off to Kyoto. There we booked a room at a traditional Japanese ryokan. Being one of the busiest seasons in Kyoto, Kim found a little place called Ryokan Izuyasu online which the price included a traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast. It is located down a small side street and does not look like much from the outside. I would highly recommend it as it is close to the train station, clean, family operated (which made it genuinely pleasant), and an overall fun experience. We got to Kyoto around noon and check in was not until 4:00 in the afternoon. We dropped our bags off and headed out for some sight seeing.

First let me preface this by saying that the purpose of going to Kyoto (again) was to see the cherry blossoms which were forecast to bloom that week. Kyoto is the most spectacular place to see the cherry blossoms for several reasons: 1) there are many of them 2) you can visit many of the temples and gardens which are amazing when the blossoms are in full bloom 3) you can see many women dressed in traditional kimono walking around (if you are lucky as we were, you might even see maiko with their geisha).

We bought city bus passes which are 500 yen/day (or $5.00). We decided to head to Kiyomizu-Dera first. Because it is the busy season, the buses were packed, but for the price vs. a cab or train, it was bearable. When we finally got to Kiyomizu-Dera, it was already obvious that we were too early for the blossoms. It looked like we arrived a few days too soon... only a few trees bloomed and the rest seemed like they were about to. We made the best of it by taking pictures in front of only the trees with flowers.

Although the cherry blossoms were almost non-existent, the feeling of being in Kyoto during hanami was amazing. The weather was not particularly great as it was cold and did rain a bit, but you could tell that there was a buzz in the air. Japanese get really excited during this time as they have big celebrations in the parks around the city. As I mentioned before, Kyoto can be a very traditional city with many women wearing kimono. Kim and I were fortunate to run into some maiko and of course I had to take a photo with them!

I have to say that it looks like a pain in the ass to get into one of these things... not only are their layers of clothing to wear, but I can't imagine the time it takes to do their hair and put on all that makeup which runs down their back (I only know cause I took a picture... I don't know how far down it goes).

After Kiyomizu-Dera, it started to rain and we had to get back to the hotel for dinner. We walked down some side streets and found a few more trees with flowers. Then called it a day.

Himeiji Castle

During our week in Osaka, we had some free time and caught the train out to Himeiji (about 45 minutes). On my quest to visit as many of Japan's 26 castles, we spent the day touring the Himeiji Castle and its many surrounding samurai gardens. Himeiji Castle is by far the most popular castles in Japan and my favorite thus far. We were fortunate that the weather was remarkably nice on the day that we went. Blue and sunny skies allowed for a clear view of the castle from a distant. From the train station, you walk about a mile or so down a busy street that was once the outer moat protecting the castle. We were also fortunate when we arrived because they offered free English tours so Kim and I jumped on the opportunity. The guides name was Yamamoto San. The tour took almost 2 1/2 hours and was well worth it. Kim and I were the only ones in the group so Yamamoto San took his time explaining all the little details about the castle and it's many unique defense features. Aside from the high stone walls and many moats that most Japanese castles have, Himeiji was designed with many paths and illusional walls that trick possible attackers. For example, the picture above looks like a continuous brick wall or a likely dead end. It in fact leads to a secret path for soldiers to flank the enemy if they broke through the first gate. The path that you see in the picture was added for the purpose of tourists but allows you to see what I am referring to. Yamamoto San would ask us "which way would you go?" We would state the obvious path which would lead up to the castle, but again it was another trick and usually lead to a dead end or a courtyard where would be attackers were ambushed with a flurry of arrows. The castle was full of these paths and other interesting defense designs. From secret passage ways for escape to narrow doors so only one attacker can pass through at a time. It is still unclear to researchers as to what actual purpose of some of the designs but it was fun to let your imagination run wild. Himeji Castle was never attacked...

Surrounding the castle were several samurai gardens known as Koko-en. Samurai once surrounded the castle and the closer the samurai lived to the castle, the higher their rank was. These 9 gardens were recently developed but named after the samurai that once lived there. They were elaborate zen like landscapes with cherry blossom trees and ponds abundant with colorful and extremal large koi. The gardens also included a bonsai exhibit where some 100 year old bonsai trees were on display. Each of these trees had a special name and cost about 4,000,000 yen (or $40,000) each.

All in all, it was a great day trip. I suggest that you bring comfortable walking shoes if you go. The castle itself spans over 10 acres.

Note: You can buy a combined ticket to see the castle and Koko-en for a discounted price of 700 yen (or $7.00).

Kim's Big 3-O

Kim turned a whopping 3-O on March 4th. I planned a surprise birthday party for her this past weekend with the help of one of her friends. We started off at a small (hole-in-the-wall) restaurant in Sakae, Nagoya. From there we met everyone at a place called Amataro for food, drinks, and karaoke (all of Kim's favorites in one place).

There are 2 Amataro locations in Nagoya. One is 2 blocks from our house and the other is a 10-15 minute walk to downtown. We chose the one in downtown because there is a private karaoke room you can rent out. Being that we were all foreign, it was probably a good idea we did. For $50 bucks a person, we were able to enjoy all you can drink booze, all you can eat shabu shabu, and hear Kim serenade us for 90 minutes. Not a bad deal since we ate and drank a tremendous amount. Following that, we decided to hit the town. One of the highlights of the night was finding this kebab stand selling beer and kebabs - it was delicious (at 2:00 AM)!

Note: Bars and restaurants in Japan offer nomihodai and tabehodai. Both are a great deal if you are thirsty and/or hungry. You can usually find places that offer a combination of both for a reasonable fee.

On Kim's actual birthday, we ate at a restaurant down the street called Garuva. It is unique because each table is a tent lit only by candle light. At first, when you enter the restaurant, it almost seems like they are closed. The large heavy iron door leads you to a waiting area where you are welcomed by a soft spoken host which sets the tone and manner of the evening. You are then lead to your table (or tent) by way of flashlight. In the tent, you will find pillows and bean cushions for you to sit and lounge on. Most people kept their conversations to a low whisper. The atmosphere is meditating with the smell of incense and soothing Enya-esque music playing in the background. The food is not bad with an eclectic mix of Indian, Vietnamese, Italian, and more. We chose 5 different food items from the Vietnamese Salad to a Prosciutto Pizza, a bottle of wine, and 2 desserts which came to about $100 US total- not a bad deal considering the atmosphere and a great time with Kim.

Japan Weirdness

Nudity at the airport (click on image)

Pimp and Geisha

Cooking and smoking while selling food to people walking by

Fashion statement

What a lovely bag

$1 US = 90 Yen (you do the math)

Super Bowl Monday in Japan

OSAKA-JO

I took the train to Osaka-jo (castle) today. One of my many goals over the next 2 years is to visit all 26 Japan castles. Each castle is unique and today some are still in there original forms as others are reconstructed and turned into modern museums. Osaka-jo is a modern museum with 8 floors of historic artifacts.

It is only a 15 minute train ride from Osaka Station (Umeda). I suggest you research about the history before you go. There are not many English explanations on the exhibits but it is still an attraction that should not be missed.

Like everything else, there is a lot of walking. The area has a huge park with a bunch of shrines and structures deemed "Important Cultural Assets by the Japanese government".

The whole experience should take less than half a day.

Directions: From Osaka Station (Umeda) take the JR West Loop Line to Osakajokoen. It's a 15 minute train ride if you catch the train going in the right direction. Just make sure you get on the "Loop Line", it goes in a "loop".

Nara

The thing about being in Osaka is that it is central to many places. Kyoto for example is only 30 minutes by the local trains. There are several different types of trains or stations in Osaka so you need to make sure that you get on the correct one. There is the subway, the Honshin, the Hankyu, and the JR. The concierge at the Hilton are very helpful and they provided me with train maps and a list of places to go. Kim and I were having drinks in the lounge and met a couple from Santa Fe, New Mexico. They were wrapping up the end of their vacation in Osaka. Since Kim was working during the day, I decided to ask them if they wanted to go to Nara with me.
Nara is a part of Kansai and west of Osaka (about 1 hour by train). It is known for 2 things. The first being temples and shrines. The most popular one is Todai-ji Temple (shown above). It costs 500 yen to enter the temple. However, Todai-ji is the largest wooden structure in the world and houses a large Buddha figure or Daibutsu (shown below). The figure stands nearly 15 meters tall (approximately 50 feet) and weighs 550 tons. I have seen many temples already and was not enthusiastic to pay to see this one but I have to admit that it was worth it. I was in awe when I arrived at Todai-ji. This structure is amazing. To put its size in perspective, look at how small the people in the picture are compared to the building itself.

Secondly, Nara is know for it's infestation of deer. Yes, like Bambi! They are all over the place and will come up to you and eat straight from your hand. At first it seems pretty cool but where ever you go, watch your step cause there is deer crap all over the place. It is recommended that you do not touch the deer as well. They are cute and friendly but are really dirty.

All in all, Nara was an enjoyable experience. There is so much to see so you can spend an entire day their but be prepared to do a lot of walking.

Directions: From Osaka Station, take JR Yamatoji Line. It takes 47 minutes and will cost you 780 yen one way. When you arrive in Nara, I suggest you take a taxi and to Todai-ji Temple (1000 yen) and begin your day their.

OSAKA

Kim had some work to do in Kobe this week. We stayed at the Hilton located in the heart of Osaka. Osaka is apart of the Kansai which is made up of Kobe, Kyoto, and Osaka. It is the second largest metropolitan city in Japan and is known for its gourmet food. I just had to tag along.

We took the Shinkansen from Nagoya. The train ride in itself is quite and experience. First of all, it is not cheap and roughly 6,500 yen or ($70) one way. The trains are always clean and always on time. There are 3 different types of trains and we rode the N700 Series which are the newest and fastest trains in the fleet. It takes about 1 hour to get to Osaka from Nagoya. People on the trains don't usually talk or at least have loud conversations. Most Japanese usually sleep or drink. Kim works and I usually sleep :)

Osaka is know for its food culture. Kim and I found some very nice and affordable restaurants in the area. 2 in particular were about a 10 minute walk from the hotel.

EN is an izakaya style restaurant. Izakaya is a type of Japanese eating style similar to small plates or tapas restaurants. When you enter EN, you are required to take off your shoes. It is an interesting restaurant with all sorts of things going on. We went on a Wednesday night and it was packed. There are private dining rooms, tables, bar seating, and floor seating. As I mentioned before you take your shoes off which makes it awkward cause it is a nice, modern style restaurant. The prices are very reasonable at 500-700 yen a plate. Kim and I tried several dishes. Our favorite being the curried fried chicken. After about 2 bottles of sake, some beer, and a bunch of food, our bill was only 6000 yen or $65. Not bad for a fun night out in Osaka.



Our next recommendation is a yakiniku restaurant called Don Don (or Don 2). Yakiniku is another Japanese style of cooking where you are served plates of sliced raw meat and you cook it yourself. Again, another crowded restaurant so we sat at the kitchen counter which is probably the best seat in the house. They give you a ceramic pot with red hot coals. Kim and I chose the seafood and meat platters. Sitting at the counter, you can watch the cooks slice and prepare all the food. Everything comes out neatly presented on a plate along with different dipping sauces. While we were eating, I saw a dish of nice marbled beef. I asked the chef if we could have an order of it and it was the most tender piece of meat I've ever eaten. It is so good that you sear the meat and eat it almost raw. Flavorful and cool center made it like butter! After all of that and another 2 bottles of sake and beer out grand total was just under 10,000 yen or $100.