Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Himeiji Castle

During our week in Osaka, we had some free time and caught the train out to Himeiji (about 45 minutes). On my quest to visit as many of Japan's 26 castles, we spent the day touring the Himeiji Castle and its many surrounding samurai gardens. Himeiji Castle is by far the most popular castles in Japan and my favorite thus far. We were fortunate that the weather was remarkably nice on the day that we went. Blue and sunny skies allowed for a clear view of the castle from a distant. From the train station, you walk about a mile or so down a busy street that was once the outer moat protecting the castle. We were also fortunate when we arrived because they offered free English tours so Kim and I jumped on the opportunity. The guides name was Yamamoto San. The tour took almost 2 1/2 hours and was well worth it. Kim and I were the only ones in the group so Yamamoto San took his time explaining all the little details about the castle and it's many unique defense features. Aside from the high stone walls and many moats that most Japanese castles have, Himeiji was designed with many paths and illusional walls that trick possible attackers. For example, the picture above looks like a continuous brick wall or a likely dead end. It in fact leads to a secret path for soldiers to flank the enemy if they broke through the first gate. The path that you see in the picture was added for the purpose of tourists but allows you to see what I am referring to. Yamamoto San would ask us "which way would you go?" We would state the obvious path which would lead up to the castle, but again it was another trick and usually lead to a dead end or a courtyard where would be attackers were ambushed with a flurry of arrows. The castle was full of these paths and other interesting defense designs. From secret passage ways for escape to narrow doors so only one attacker can pass through at a time. It is still unclear to researchers as to what actual purpose of some of the designs but it was fun to let your imagination run wild. Himeji Castle was never attacked...

Surrounding the castle were several samurai gardens known as Koko-en. Samurai once surrounded the castle and the closer the samurai lived to the castle, the higher their rank was. These 9 gardens were recently developed but named after the samurai that once lived there. They were elaborate zen like landscapes with cherry blossom trees and ponds abundant with colorful and extremal large koi. The gardens also included a bonsai exhibit where some 100 year old bonsai trees were on display. Each of these trees had a special name and cost about 4,000,000 yen (or $40,000) each.

All in all, it was a great day trip. I suggest that you bring comfortable walking shoes if you go. The castle itself spans over 10 acres.

Note: You can buy a combined ticket to see the castle and Koko-en for a discounted price of 700 yen (or $7.00).

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